Thursday 27 January 2011

it's not what's above the door; it's what's on it.

Lorenzo waiting outside Sora Margherita.
Sora Margherita. Another institution in the Ghetto, along side the Burnt Bakery.

So old and so good that they don't care to put a name out front. All the front door has is at least two dozens of 'Best Rated...' stickers going back to God knows when. They've been around for so long (Renato, the head baker at Roscioli, said his mom cooked for them for over 30 years), they don't make any effort to make a name for themselves. There are lots of other people who are more than happy to do it for them and in a reversal of roles, want their names to be on their door.

Finding it requires some homework searching for it on the net and then some legwork finding it because when it is closed and the chairs and the little chalkboard outside are packed away, there is little clue of what a lies behind the door. 



Once again, there is nothing fancy inside the restaurant. It is small and cram and the noise of all the ordering, serving and eating bounce off the walls continuously. If you want to be in close quarters with the locals, watch how they enjoy their food, listen to their chatter, then this is the place to be...in addition to the food, of course. To just focus on how good the food was seems to do it some injustice. The intended or unintended preservation of the place is half the magic.

Highly recommended for those in Rome and without any Italian friends. Walk in feeling like a tourist and for the next hour or so, it will feel like spending time in someone's home having a nice homecooked meal. Eat here and it will feel like you have been to Italy more than a picture in front of the Spanish Steps does. Almost guaranteed you will walk out feeling a little more Italian.

Battered Cod.

Jewish Artichoke.

Deep fried twice over, everything can be eaten.

Normal side up.

Grilled lamb.

Tripe.

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